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A Tour of the Kamakura Period

There are many historical sites around Tsurugaoka Hachimangu that tell the story of Kamakura. Why don't you use the shrine as a starting point for your tour of Kamakura?

A Tour of the Beginning and End of the Kamakura Shogunate

The Kamakura shogunate was the first samurai government in Japanese history. The tour will take you to the historical sites of its birth and demise, from Sasuke Inari Shrine, which honors the omen that lead to the ousting of the Heike family, to Toshoji Temple, the site of the Kamakura shogunate’s eventual end.

1. Genjiyama

It is thought that this mountain was called Mount Genji because the residences of the Genji clan were located at the foot of the mountain for generations. Legend has it that Minamoto Yoriyoshi and his son Yoshiie set up the white flag of the Minamoto clan on this mountain to prepare their forces for their conquest of Oshu. At the foot of the mountain, there is a derrick that is said to be the graves of Minamoto Sanetomo and Hojo Masako. A statue of Minamoto Yoritomo, dressed in armor, sits at the top of the mountain and still watches over the city of Kamakura to this day.

2. Sasuke Inari Shrine

When Minamoto Yoritomo fell ill after being exiled to Hirugakojima, a white-haired old man who called himself Inari from the hidden village of Kamakura appeared in Yoritomo’s dream three nights in a row and advised him to take revenge on the Heike family and unify the country. Later, Yoritomo, who founded the shogunate, discovered a small Inari shrine dedicated to the old man in Sasukegaya and, in gratitude for the man's kindness, rebuilt the building. The shrine is also called Otasuke Inari, Shusse Inari, and Shouri Inari because it helped Yoritomo revive the Genji clan and helped him to rise in the world, and many worshippers come to visit it.

3. The Site of the Okura Shogunate

This is where Minamoto Yoritomo, who came to Kamakura, set up his residence and early governmental functions. While Tsurugaoka Hachimangu was the spiritual core of the Kamakura shogunate, this was the center of its daily activities.

4. The Grave of Minamoto Yoritomo (Shirahata Shrine)

Passing by Shirahata Shrine and Hokkedo Ruins, which are dedicated to Minamoto Yoritomo, and walking up the stone steps, you will find the grave of Yoritomo. Although it may look simple, Yoritomo's grave is built in a stratified tower style despite the fact that most of the graves in Kamakura were built in yagura (horizontal cave tombs) style. From this fact it is clear that Yoritomo was treated as a special person who was distinct from other influential family members from the beginning.

5. Kehaizaka Hill

It was one of the seven main roads into Kamakura at that time. Along with Kobukuro-zaka and Gokuraku-ji-zaka, it was the main battlefield during the Kamakura offensive by Nitta Yoshisada, which led to the end of the Kamakura shogunate. In particular, Kehaizaka Hill was the place where Yoshisada himself led his troops to attack. Afterwards, Yoshisada attacked the center of Kamakura via Inamuragasaki and won the battle.

6. The Site of Toshoji Temple

This place is also famous as the "gutters’ derrick". Due to the attack on Kamakura by Nitta Yoshisada, Hojo Takatoki, the 14th regent of the Kamakura shogunate, moved with the other shoguns to Toshoji Temple, the family temple of his ancestors, and set fire to the temple. 283 members of his family, about 870 people in all, committed suicide there. The Kamakura shogunate, founded by Minamoto Yoritomo, came to an end at Toshoji Temple.

Exploring the Life of Minamoto Yoritomo

The tour will take you to important places in the life of Minamoto Yoritomo, including sites of important achievements by the founder of the Kamakura shogunate, places associated with his wife, Hojo Masako, and places associated with his brother, Yoshitsune.

1. Hikigaya

Hikigaya is where the Hiki clan, including Hiki Yoshikazu, the chief vassals of the early Kamakura period, are said to have had their mansion.
Since Yoritomo's nanny was Yoshikazu's foster mother, the Hiki family built a good relationship with Yoritomo and their power grew. Yoritomo’s wife, Hojo Masako, gave birth to the second Shogun, Yoriie, at Hiki’s house, and it is said that Yoriie's nanny was Yoshikazu’s wife.
Today, there is a Nichiren sect temple called Myohonji Temple in Hikigaya, named as a reminder of the power of the Hiki clan.

2. Wakamiya Oji

Wakamiya Oji street is a 2km pathway that runs in a straight line from Yuigahama Beach to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. It is said that Minamoto Yoritomo built it as a first step toward the development of Kamakura and to pray for the safe delivery of his wife, Hojo Masako.

3. Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, Maiden

Yoshitsune, the younger brother of Minamoto Yoritomo had a favorite mistress called Shizuka Gozen. It is said that Shizuka Gozen once danced for Yoshitsune in the Wakamiya corridor. When Yoritomo saw this, he was furious, but his wife, Masako, intervened and settled the situation. The Main Hall was built on the former site of the Wakamiya corridor.

4. The Grave of Minamoto Yoritomo

5. The Site of Eifukuji Temple

This is one of the three major shrines and temples (Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, Shochojuin Temple, and Eifukuji Temple) built by Minamoto Yoritomo in Kamakura. In those days, the main hall, Amidado Hall, and Yakushido, which served as the main temple building, as well as other buildings such as Tsuridono, Tahoto, and a bell tower, stood side by side in the temple compound. The temple hall facing the pond with its back to the mountain must have impressed the warriors of the Kamakura period as its majestic appearance was suggestive of Gokurakujoudo, a legendary Buddhist paradise.

6. The Former Site of Shochojuin

This is one of the three major shrines and temples (Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, Shochojuin Temple, and Eifukuji Temple) built by Minamoto Yoritomo in Kamakura. It was built to commemorate the death of Minamoto Yoritomo's father, Minamoto Yoshitomo, who was killed in the Heiji Disturbance (1159). Yoritomo invited sculptors and painters from Chuo (the old way of referring to the imperial capital of Kyoto), where the imperial palace was, to build the temple. In Kamakura, where there was no traditional culture, this structure influenced later art and culture as well as Eifukuji Temple, by introducing Chuo culture.

A Tour of the Kamakura Samurai Landscape

The samurai played a significantly role in shaping the culture of the Kamakura period. This tour includes Goryo Shrine, where tales of the samurais' simple and robust temperament are told, and other historical sites that tell the story of the samurai who supported the Kamakura shogunate.

1. Goryo Shrine

Kamakura Gongoro Kagemasa is enshrined in the old shrine, which has been in existence since before the establishment of the Kamakura shogunate.
During the Later Three Years' War, an enemy shot Kagemasa in the eye, but Kagemasa didn't even try to pull out the arrow. Miura Tameji put his foot on his forehead to pull out the arrow that was sticking out of Kagemasa's eye, but Kagemasa immediately said, "It is the desire of a warrior to die by being shot. But it is such misery to get one’s face stepped on while still alive..." and he tried to attack Tameji. Tameji and the rest of the soldiers couldn't argue with this. So Tameji bent down on his knees, held Kagemasa’s face, and politely pulled out the arrow.
This tale of Kagemasa's bravery has been passed down through the generations as a testament to the spirit of the samurai of the eastern provinces.

2. Komachi Oji

Minamoto Yoritomo started to build the city of Kamakura and developed Komachi Oji street, which parallels Wakamiya Oji street to the east, as the main thoroughfare running through the commercial district of Kamakura.
Both sides of Komachi Oji street were lined with influential samurai residences, making it a busy thoroughfare.

3. Hikigaya

Hikigaya is where the Hiki clan, including Hiki Yoshikazu, the chief vassals of the early Kamakura period, are said to have had their mansion.
Since Yoritomo's nanny was Yoshikazu's foster mother, the Hiki family built a good relationship with Yoritomo and their power grew. Yoritomo’s wife, Hojo Masako, gave birth to the second Shogun, Yoriie, at Hiki’s house, and it is said that Yoriie's nanny was Yoshikazu’s wife.
¥Today, there is a Nichiren sect temple called Myohonji Temple in Hikigaya, named as a reminder of the power of the Hiki clan.

4. The Hojo Family's Komachi Mansion

After Minamoto Yoritomo's death, the Hojo clan established a regency government by holding the real power of the shogunate. The mansion where their successive regents lived is Komachi-tei, the residence of the Hojo clan.
The following anecdote about the 3rd generation regent Yasutoki is recorded in the 13th century Buddhist text, Shasekishu. The mansion did not have a fence, so the surrounding samurais offered to build a fence, but Yasutoki refused, saying, "I would feel sorry to use workers from all over the country. No matter how cautious we are, if we are unlucky, that is our fate.” It is said that this house was a good example of the spirit of a simple samurai.

5. The Ruins of Hatakeyama Shigetada's Residence

In the area currently owned by the Elementary and Junior High School of Yokohama National University, in those days there were many residences of influential samurais and Hatakeyama Shigetada, a famous warrior, was the one who lived in the area near Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. Because of the anecdotes about his actions in the battle of Ichinotani and his many distinguished deeds such as the subjugation of Fujiwara clan in Oshu region, Yoritomo's trust in him gradually grew, and later he was entrusted with assisting the second shogun, Yoriie.
The many anecdotes about him and his distinguished service to the shogunate made him an exemplary figure for samurais, and he was called the "paragon of a warrior".

6. The Remains of Oe Hiromoto's Residence

Oe Hiromoto demonstrated his skill in planning in the establishment of a guardianship, and he was highly trusted by Lord Yoritomo. Even after Yoritomo's death, Hiromoto continued to build the foundation for the establishment of the shogunate and the samurai society in cooperation with Hojo Tokimasa, Hojo Yoshitoki and others.
It seems that only influential samurai were allowed to build their mansions on Mutsuramichi street where Hiromoto's house was located. Since the house was about 463 square meters in size, Hiromoto’s power at that time is evident.

A Tour of Shrines with an Enduring Story to Tell

There are many historical facts and incredible stories that remain in Kamakura. Many of these stories have been passed down through shrines. This tour takes you on a tour of these mysterious shrines where the stories remain.

1. Otomatsu Inari Shrine

This is one of the shrines of Inari, which is believed in by many people, including the local people.
A long time ago, a small shrine called Otomatsu Inari was located at the root of a huge pine tree, but the pine tree was burnt halfway down by lightning and strong wind destroyed the rest so that only a little part of it was left afterwards.
In the beginning of the Showa era (1926-1989), the grounds of the shrine were cleaned up and a small shrine was re-erected by a man who was described as the owner of Chakushoan Temple. The master of Chakushoan was a politician who had served as the Minister of Finance and the Minister of Education, and was also a haiku poet (known as Zaiju, and formerly as Meian). His name was Shoda Kazue.

2. Sasuke Inari Shrine

3. Oumeshotensha Shrine

This is where the Oumeshotensha is enshrined. Seiten (Shoten) is also known as “Joyful Heaven”, a kami of Indian origin. There is an interesting story about the origin of the name of Oumeshotensha Shrine. It is said that a Kamakura shogun who was ill asked for out-of-season green plums (oume). He found some fresh green plums in front of the shrine and ate them, then he recovered instantly.

4. Shiichi Inari

Shiichi Inari is not a very common name for an Inari, but its origins are very old, and it began when Shiichi, a monk from Chikushi, came to Kamakura to attend to a lawsuit. As Shiichi rushed to Kamakura, he forgot some important evidence documents at his home in Chikushi. Shiichi was worried, but he had the documents brought to Kamakura by a servant fox in the course of one night and was able to win the case. However, the fox that carried the important documents died after giving them to Shiichi, and the fox is said to have been enshrined as the kami of Inari at the shrine here.

5. Shirahata Shrine (Ruins of Hokkedo)

Shirahata Shrine is located underneath the grave of Minamoto Yoritomo, who is enshrined there as a deity.
This originally was the Hokkedo, a hall of Buddhist altars built to enshrine the statue of Motodori Kannon, which is the guardian deity of Minamoto Yoritomo. This approximately 6cm silver statue of Kannon was placed on Yoritomo’s helmet at the Battle of Mount Ishibashi, but Yoritomo had to escape from the battle site and he left it in a safe rocky pit. Afterwards, a monk from Mt. Izu found the statue and delivered it to Yoritomo, and grateful Yoritomo never left it behind after that.
The Hokkedo was separated from the tomb in the beginning of the Meiji era (1868) and Shirahata Shrine was built on its site.

6. Egaraten Shrine

Along with Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka and Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto, Egaraten Shrine has long been known as one of the three most famous Tenjinja shrines in Japan.
According to a legend, in 1104 a thunderstorm brought down the image of Tenjin and the villagers built the shrine to enshrine the image and planted a ginkgo tree as a sacred tree. Successive shoguns, including Minamoto Yoritomo, worshipped this shrine as the guardian deity of the demon gate of Okura.